A Driving Tour of San Marcos

By Frances Stovall, Heritage Tourism Coordinator

The route you will follow as you depart the Tourist Information Center after arriving from Austin on Interstate 35 will lead you via Aquarena Springs Drive to Aquarena Springs Resort. The entrance is beyond a section of the Old Post Road, a military road, which linked Austin with San Marcos in the time of the Texas Republic. In the 1920s it was constructed as a portion of the first federal highway built in Texas.

Within the grounds at Aquarena are historical markers for the San Marcos Springs, Fort San Marcos, and the Eli T. Merriman Cabin. This little building was the home of one of the first five settlers to arrive in San Marcos.

Also in the park on a hill above the famous springs that form the San Marcos River is a replica of General Edward Burleson's San Marcos home, as well as an early grist mill in working condition.

Archaelogical exploration is going on periodically in the river within the grounds of Aquarena. The presence of Clovis Indians dating back more than 13,000 years has been detected at this historic watering place.

Shortly after Aquarena Springs Drive becomes University Drive, you reach the San Marcos River. To your right is the location of the first industry in San Marcos, the Burleson Mill, a saw and grist mill dating to 1848. The restaurant Pepper's at the Falls is now located on the approximate site of this early mill.

You are now driving along the Jefferson Davis Highway marked by the Daughters of the Confederacy. Immediately to your right rise the spires of Old Main, the first building erected for the Normal School, today's Southwest Texas State University. It stands just above the actual location of the federal fish hatchery established here in the 1890s.

Nearing the intersection of C.M. Allen Parkway and University Drive, you pass a stately oak tree in front of an old rock building built as the Boy Scout Hut. The tree is known as the Sam Houston Kissing Oak under which Houston made a campaign speech in 1857.

Continue along Aquarena Springs Drive as it becomes C.M. Allen Parkway to the Old Fish Hatchery Building on your left. This was the office for the fish hatchery, the first to be established by the federal government west of the Mississippi River.

In view to your right on Moon Drive, you will notice a prominent Texas Historical marker. It commemorates the log building where in the 1850s all community gatherings, as well as court, church, and school were held.
Approaching the intersection of C.M. Allen Parkway and East Hopkins Street, to your left across Hopkins on the corner you will see the Charles S. Cock House Museum, the first building in San Marcos to be entered in the National Register of Historic Places.



It is believed the house was built in 1867 as a residence in town for Charles S. Cock, a Mississippi planter who arrived in 1851. Squire Cock became a leader in the development of San Marcos. He conducted the charter meeting of the first Masonic Lodge, was county treasurer during the time of the Civil War, and while serving as the town's second mayor in 1881, was instrumental in bringing the railroad through San Marcos.

Restoration of the house now known as the Charles S. Cock House Museum took place as a main focus of the American Revolution Bicentennial celebration. The house is considered the showplace of city parkland surrounded as it is with the fountain, gazebo and memorial grove. The stone portion of the building is in the Greek Revival architectural style prevalent in Texas in the 1860s. The Victorian elements at the porch were added in the 1890s.

The house becomes the Cottage Kitchen each Friday where luncheons have been served to the public since 1976 by the Heritage Association. The luncheons draw tourists and vistors from nearby towns in increasing numbers. The resulting income supports presevation and beautification.

Near the fountain in the park is a historical marker identifying Captain Henry McCulloch's camp located here during the United States War with Mexico. A path leads from the picturesque Victorian gazebo to the river and a two-mile scenic walk along the San Marcos River Walkway. It was constructed during the nation's Bicentennial to unite three small city parks along the river. This contributed to San Marcos' designation as a National American Revolution Bicentennial City, among the first eight so named in the United States.
Turning right onto Hopkins Street, originally called Fort Street because of McCullough's camp, you approach the Courthouse Square where the earliest commercial buildings may be seen. Within block 100 are several brick and stone buildings built in the 1880s-1890s when San Marcos was a bustling cotton center.

On the northeast corner of Hopkins and LBJ is the Donalson Building, a handsome stone building of the late 1880s. Next on the right is an old building known historically as Harper's Hall. Short of the alley is another significant stone building, the 1886 Hardy-Williams Building which is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Two buildings at the center of the 100 block of West Hopkins have undergone remarkable transformations in the past few years. These two buildings, built 30 years apart, were purchased in 1992 from the Wood family. The further restoration of the second floors has provided newly opened office spaces. The older masonry building was built in 1885 and housed the Glover, later the Wood National Bank. The buildings are included in the Courthouse Square National Register District and now house attractive upbeat retail establishments on the ground floor that have helped bring vitality to downtown.

At the morthwest corner of Hopkins and Guadalupe is the original building of State Bank and Trust. It is occasionally opened for special exhibits during certain downtown festival days.

On the west side of the square is the Hays County Abstract Company restored to reveal the first discovered iron front building. The iron columns were shipped in from St. Louis. Look for the large boulders imbedded in the sidewalk dating to the time before the streets were paved and sidewalks installed.

The Courthouse, built in 1909, is the fourth building to stand at this location. It is a registered Texas landmark and listed in the National Register of Historic Places. The facade and dome have recently been damaged and it will soon undergo restoration. Its rotunda, floored in mosaic tile centered with the Texas star, is noted for its remarkable acoustics.

At the northeast corner of LBJ and San Antonio Streets is the Courthouse Annex. The three-story building was built in 1909 as the First National Bank. Restoration in 1989 brought noted improvement to the appearance of downtown. The Courthouse Square was placed in the National Register in 1992.
Continuing west along San Antonio Street, several homes representing a broad range of architectural styles are to be seen. Particularly notable is theauthentic Victorian at #620 set well back from the street on its original land.

Across from #620 is the Sheriff Jackman house at 621 West San Antonio. A portion of the house is of early date and at one time temporarily housed prisoners in a basement room during construction of a new jail. A handsome house built in the popular Classic Revival style is the I.B. Rylander House at #711, a National Register listed residence.

A swing over one block south brings one to Martin Luther King Drive where one of the earliest buildings in San Marcos was recently restored and dedicated a Registered Texas Historic Landmark. The modest white building, "The Calaboose," was the original Hays County Jail, built in 1873 in the time of Sheriff Bugg, a great-grandfather of actor/director Robert Redford.

A return along Fredericksburg Street brings one back to Hopkins Street where one block over, at the corner of Hopkins and Comanche, is found the beautiful restoration of the Old Epicopal Rectory, offices today for Benchmark Insurance.
Traveling west, at 315 Hopkins is the John Matthew Cape House built in 1902. Today it is the chapter house for Alpha Delta Pi sorority.

Two doors west at #326 is the Crystal River Inn, the earliest remaing house constructed originally in the Victorian style for Judge W.D. Wood who owned Chatauqua Hill where the Normal School (SWTSU) was later erected. The house was converted in 1909 to its Classic Revival architectural style with the addition of handsome Ionic columns.

Two blocks further along on West Hopkins is the church building erected for the Cumberland Presbyterians in the 1890s. It was restored as both office and shelter in 1988 by architect Jeffrey Kester. It is known today as the Fort Street Building to bring to mind that Hopkins was originally Fort Street leading to a military encampment at the river.

Further along Hopkins is the Walter Hofheinz house at #819. Built in 1909, the house was restored and placed on the National Register in 1983.

Continuing west for three blocks the Augusta Hofheinz House is reached at #1104. It was constructed in 1908 for the widow of early hotel-keeper Daniel Hofheinz and now houses on three floors Millie Seaton's private doll collection.

One block north at 1030 Belvin Street, the visitor sees the impressive Lloyd Gideon Johnson House. The home was authentically restored in 1990 and more recently elaborately landscaped by its present owners. This mansion was designed and built in 1929 by San Antonio architect Atlee B. Ayers.
The National Register District of Belvin Street is dominated by the impressive residence, Crookwood, home of former Ambassador to Australia William H. Crook and his wife, Eleanor Butt Crook. It was built for merchant I.W. Wood in the manner of a southern plantation.

The district is noted for the concentration of homes built in the Gothic Victorian style of architecture, many bearing also the Recorded Texas Historic Landmark medallion.

Upon leaving the Belvin Historic District the street becomes Hutchison at the curve of Scott Street and leads back to the town square. En route is a historically significant building, the First United Methodist Church, a beautifully restored Gothic Victorian sanctuary housing a congregation with unbroken continuity since 1847. Its history is connected to the earliest founders of San Marcos.